#Diy window muntins pro#
#Diy window muntins windows#

On larger panes, set points away from the corners of the glass at least one-fourth the length of the edge, and then every 8″ to 10″ in between. Set at least one point per edge on panes smaller than 6″ or 8″. Be careful it’s easy to squeeze too much putty out of the bed-leave at least 1/16” of putty between the pane and the shoulder of the glazing rabbet. Turn the sander on, and touch the rubber pad on the glass for a quick second or two. Only use a new (low-cost) palm sander to avoid scratching the glass with any residual grit.

#Diy window muntins pro#

Pro Tip: You can quickly “bed” the pane down into the putty using an electric palm sander with a rubber pad (no sandpaper). Panes wider than 24″ may require spacer blocks between the edges of the glass and the neck of the glazing rabbet-little pieces of wood or plastic that help secure heavier panes until the putty firms up. You should have some putty squeezing out along all the edges of the glass. Leave at least 1⁄16″ of back putty between the glass and the shoulder of the glazing rabbet. Jiggle the pane slightly with your fingers along the edges so it beds down into the putty. Place each pane of glass on the bedding putty, making sure the bottom edge of glass rests on the neck of the lower glazing rabbet. Next, lay a “bed” of putty in all the glazing rabbets of the sash. (I lay the panes out on the bench in the same arrangement some stick on blue painter’s tape and number it.) Warm up the putty by kneading it in your hand, then press the putty into the glazing rabbet with your fingers, thumb, or the heel of your hand. When you take them out, keep them in an order you can remember so they go back where they belong. Start by making sure all the panes fit by laying them in place in the sash. Re-prime any spots or areas of bare wood where sanding removed the primer. Dust with a HEPA vacuum or brush and tack cloth. Step 4: Sand primed surfaces, if neededĪs above, sand off any nibs and whiskers until all surfaces feel smooth. Leaving some primer puddled on the surface at the joints also makes it easier and quicker to get primer into the corners when you come back to brush the primer out across the surface. If you are priming the glazing rabbets, start by brushing a little puddle of primer on at each joint it will soak into the joint and help seal the end-grain. Do not prime the glazing rabbets if they were pre-treated with an oil-resin. Prime all the surfaces of the sash except the side edges (that run in the tracks) and the face margins. Sand off nibs and whiskers, then dust with a HEPA vacuum and tack cloth. Step 2: Sand wood surfaces, if neededĪll surfaces and arrises should feel smooth.

For more information, visit epa.gov/lead.

#Diy window muntins windows#

Safety Tip: Old windows usually contain lead paint-always follow lead-safe work practices. This prevents the wood from absorbing too much oil from the putty, which can lead to putty adhesion problems. If you’re not going to pre-treat the entire sash, apply a consolidating oil or linseed oil mixture to the glazing rabbet. (Be careful not to apply pre-treatment to the side edges of the sashes and top edge of the upper sash.) Let the treatment dry before proceeding.

If you are using consolidating oil, put it in the glazing rabbets, too, and also add extra at each joint so it soaks in and treats the end-grain within. When you apply a pre-treatment to the bare wood, put it on the sash (both faces), muntin bars, and muntins. However, if it shows signs of water deterioration, give it a coat of pre-treatment. If the bottom edge of the lower sash’s bottom rail is in good condition, it doesn’t need treatment since it has done well bare for so many years. This step may not be needed if all wood surfaces are perfectly sound. By the time you get around to the front windows, your glazing will look just fine.

Once you have done 10 sashes, trying to do better each time, you’ll be more proficient. As a beginner, start with sash from the barn or back room, where your early results will be good enough as you improve your technique. Window glazing is a combination of science and art that can only be developed with experience. But with a round of maintenance and a few repairs, old wood sash windows will easily last another century. Not to mention, they’ve held up to decades of use and abuse. Window designs have evolved over centuries to enhance the beauty of a building, keep out the storms, let in the breeze, and give you a view of the trees, the moon, and the universe beyond. Reglazing windows is often the first step to improving their efficiency.